Adjusting Throttle and Clutch Cable
Cable condition and adjustment affect both feel and safety. Inspect both cables and adjust as needed before each event.
Throttle Cable (Throttle-by-Cable Cars Only)
Section titled “Throttle Cable (Throttle-by-Cable Cars Only)”Drive-by-wire cars (2023 and newer) do not have a mechanical throttle cable at the pedal — skip this section if your car is DBW.
On throttle-by-cable cars, the throttle pedal connects via cable to the throttle body. Check for smooth, free movement through the full pedal range with no binding or sticking.
- With the engine off, press the throttle pedal through its full travel — it should move freely and return crisply.
- Inspect the cable routing for any sharp bends, kinks, or chafing.
- Adjust freeplay at the barrel adjuster near the throttle body:
- Turn adjuster out to increase freeplay.
- Turn adjuster in to reduce freeplay.
- Lock the adjuster locknut after setting.
Clutch Cable
Section titled “Clutch Cable”The clutch is cable-operated on all Rush SR models. The cable runs from the clutch pedal through the chassis to the engine.
- Check that the pedal moves freely through its full range with no binding.
- The cable should have a small amount of slack at the pedal end before resistance is felt — enough that the clutch is fully released at rest, but engagement happens cleanly through pedal travel.
- Adjust at the barrel adjuster (at the pedal end or the engine end):
- Turn out to add slack.
- Turn in to remove slack.
- Lock the adjuster locknut after setting.
Cable Inspection
Section titled “Cable Inspection”Inspect the full length of both cables for:
- Fraying or kinking of the inner wire
- Cracking or splitting of the outer sheath
- Binding at any routing point or bend
Replace cables showing any of these signs. The throttle and clutch cables use different diameter wire and conduit — they are not interchangeable. Carry a spare clutch cable as trackside insurance.
